Showing posts with label range rover. Show all posts
Showing posts with label range rover. Show all posts

Rattles in late model Land Rovers



Does your Sport or LR3 sound like the spare tire is loose under the vehicle?  Have you looked and looked but found nothing loose?  If so, there's a good chance your problem is a worn sway bar.

What is a sway bar, you ask?  I'll tell you . . .

A sway is a torsion bar connecting the left and right sides of your suspension together.  The bar simply swings up and down when both wheels move together.  When one wheel goes up, as when it hits a curb or pothole, the bar resists that movement, adding to the spring rate.  When one wheel goes up and the other goes down, which is what happens when the vehicle leans into a corner, the sway bar resists doubly as its ends are twisted in opposite directions.

Sway bars are what keep your car flat when it makes a hard corner.  Without them, the body would lean on the springs to the point where you felt you were about to turn over.  Anyone who drove an old 1980s Rover without sway bars will remember this feeling well.

The Sport is a pretty high performance rig, so it has particularly beefy bars.  And of course these are heavy vehicles.  To handle all that the bars on my 2006 truck are almost an inch in diameter.  When they twist against the mounts during cornering, they twist hard.

For many years we have seen sway bar links wear out; not just on Land Rover but on BMW, Mercedes, and most other high performance cars.  The links are the rods with ball-and-socket joints that connect the sway bars to the suspension, out by the wheels.  We're accustomed to finding those worn out and rattly, but when these newer style Rovers began coming in with heavy clunks those links were surprisingly tight.  What gives?

It turns out that the bars themselves get loose in the mounts.  When they get loose, they rattle. At first we thought there was an easy fix - install new bushings.  However, the bars themselves are wearing down from friction with the bushings, so new rubber just fixes the problem for a month or so, and you have a comeback.

We have actually cured some trucks (including my own) by making sheet plastic sleeves that we fit between bar and bushing.  You're probably imagining something pretty high tech, but actually, we cut a strip out of an old windshield washer solvent bottle and wrap that around the bar.  Cheap and effective.  If you don't like that, or it does not work, your next step is to replace the bars themselves but that is a several-hour task involving lifting the truck body from the subframe to get the bars in and out.

Once you've heard a few of these noisy bars you learn to recognize the sound, and repair is pretty quick.. But we struggled many hours to find this one the first time . . .

Programming keys for your Land Rover




Most high end cars have two parts to their keys. There is a mechanical key blade that physically unlocks a mechanism, and there is an invisible electronic component that talks to the security system in the car to authorize starting.

That’s why you can’t copy keys at a locksmith anymore . . . they can duplicate the mechanical part, but without the electronics the key is useless. Even worse, if the lock turns without the electronic authorization, the alarm may go off and the car may enter a locked-down state that necessitates a tow to the repair shop.

Programming or coding keys for Range Rover 4.0 and 4.6 - 1995-2001

The pushbutton keys are numbered Key 1 through Key 4. When ordering a key, you specify the number. You can only have one of each number. So for example, if you have a Key 2, and you order a second Key 2, only one of those keys will work the remote locking system.

The keys are identified by stickers which unfortunately wear off with time. The result: you kind of take your chance on key numbers when ordering new keys, unless you have the foresight to write your numbers in your owner’s book.

Synchronization of keys on these models is pretty easy. Put the key in the driver door. Turn it to lock while pressing the lock pushbutton. Hold for 5 seconds. Turn to unlock, press unlock and hold 5 seconds.

At that point, the vehicle should lock and unlock via pushbutton. If you cannot synchronize any keys the switches in the door latch may be bad, and I suggest you attend to that right away as the car will be stranded is security sync is lost.


Programming or coding keys for Range Rover – 2002 to 2005 and BMW 7 Series 1995 to 2001

This version of Range Rover was designed while BMW owned Rover, so the key programming is shared with the big Beemers . . .

1 Make sure the vehicle is unlocked and the doors are closed with windows down (so you can’t lock yourself out by mistake)
2 Put one of the keys in the ignition and turn it to the first click and then back off within five seconds to put the car into initialization mode. From this point, you must continue key programming within 30 seconds or the system times out . . .
3 Remove the key from the ignition
4 Press and hold unlock button for up to 15 seconds. While doing this, press the lock button three times within 10 seconds.
5 Release both buttons
6 If you did this right the car will answer you by locking and then unlocking the vehicle. If this does not happen, repeat from step 4
7 Repeat steps 4 and 5 with all the other keys for the vehicle (maximum of 4)
Discovery 1999-2004

The pushbutton keys in Discovery II models can only be coded by a shop with the Autologic, T4, or IDS diagnostic systems.

Programming or coding keys for Range Rover and Range Rover Sport – 2005 and up

The pushbutton keys in these models can only be coded by a shop with the Autologic, T4, or IDS diagnostic systems.

How to reset the service reminder on late model Land Rovers



To reset the service reminder on Land Rover

This tip comes from Geoff Kelly in the UK . . .

1. Insert key in ignition.
2. Press AND HOLD the trip reset button.
3. While still pressing the trip reset button, turn on the ignition. DO NOT START THE ENGINE. Just turn the ignition on.
4. Keep pressed the trip reset button until word "Service" will flash on the instrument cluster. (about 5 seconds).
5. After a while (no more than 5 seconds) the word "Service" will remain on.
6. Release the reset button.
7. Now, by pressing the reset button, the words DIST, DATE and END are cycled on display.
8. If you want to reset the service distance, cycle until DIST is shown. If you want to reset the time-to-service, cycle until DATE is shown.
9. When the desired item is selected, press and KEEP pressed the reset button until the word RESET is shown.
Do this for both items or only for the one you desire. (I've did it only for time)
10. When you've done, cycle until END appears and then press and HOLD reset button until the display will now show the current (and newly reset) distance and time until next inspection.
11. Turn off the ignition.
12. All done!

All you ever wanted to know about . . Land Rover V8 Engine Failures



Land Rover V8 Engine failure
Land Rover V8 liner failure
Land Rover engine block failure
Land Rover Discovery engine problems


There’s a new problem in the Land Rover world. Engines in Discovery II and P38 Range Rovers are dying, and I’m about to tell you why . . .

The story begins at the foundry in Solihull, England, where Land Rover engine blocks are cast from aluminum alloy. The block is the innermost component of the engine; it’s the foundation everything else is built upon. After the engines are cast the rough holes for the cylinders are bored out and finished. After that, eight sections of steel tube are pressed into place, one for each bore. After being cut off and machined flush, those tubes become the cylinder liners. It’s those blocks and liners that are going bad.

At the plant, the raw aluminum blocks are expanded by heating, while the liners are shrunk by chilling. The block swells to maximum size, while the liners contract as much as possible. At that point, the two are pressed together. Even then, the liners are a tight fit into the block, but that’s what powerful hydraulic rams are for. Once in place, the liners expand for an even tighter fit. They are there to stay, or at least, that was the idea.

Unfortunately, things did not quite work out that way. The liners started moving, and engines began failing. How could that happen? The liners are subject to constant up-and-down forces as the pistons move within them in the running engine. In some engines, the press fit between steel liner and aluminum block just wasn’t tight enough to last.

When Land Rover started making V8 engines – thirty-plus years ago – the tooling was all fresh and everything was spot on. The engineers had calculated exactly how big the block bores should be, and what diameter was needed for the liner tubes. When those liners were pressed in place, they never moved.

Whatever else went wrong with Land Rover engines, the blocks stayed strong. And that was good, because it seemed like everything else gave trouble. Some would say, the vehicles required a lot of tinkering. Such is the British way.

That’s how it was for the first couple decades of engine production. Most engines don’t last that long on the production line, but the Land Rover V8 held on. Other manufacturers introduced more sophisticated overhead cam engines, but Rover stood firm with the old 1960s vintage pushrod V8.

I wish I could say that was a testament to its wonderful design, but the truth is, Rover really didn’t have the money or engineering resources to develop a replacement. The longer it stayed in production the more worn the tooling became. Machines that originally bored holes with an accuracy of a few ten-thousands of an inch lost their precision. In some cases, the tolerances slipped by a factor of ten. The result? Some engines left the factory with tight liners, while others were a tiny bit loose. Those were the engines that began failing.

The designers knew that steel and aluminum expand at different rates when heated. And car engines make the transition from cold to hot every time they are run. So it was absolutely vital that the steel liners be fitted tightly enough that they would never move, no matter hot how the engine got. When the tooling was new, that was what happened. When the tooling wore out, the liners weren’t always so tight anymore.

The block problems were compounded by ongoing engine development. The first Rover engines displaced 3.5 liters and made a little over 120 horsepower. In thirty years the displacement grew by 35% and power almost doubled. The displacement increase meant there was less metal in the block to soak up heat and energy, and the power increase meant there was a lot more to handle.

At the same time, today’s need for fuel efficiency and low emissions has resulted in significantly higher operating temperatures, especially inside the combustion chamber. That puts even more stress on an old design.

Problems began appearing about ten years ago. Mechanics began talking about “dropped liners,” a phrase I’d never encountered before. The constant heat cycling as the engine ran combined with the running motion and caused the liners to break loose. When they did, coolant leaked around them into the combustion chambers, and the engines failed. The solution: a new engine block, and a repair bill near $10,000.

As you can imagine, owners were outraged. To most people, the engine block is like the back seat. You just take it for granted, and it lasts the life of the vehicle. It does not wear out or fail. It’s not a wear item like a fan belt, tire, or spark plug. Yet the blocks were failing, and in large numbers.

I wrote an article about the situation a few years ago, and we developed a way to repair the blocks. We used sleeves with flanges on top, referred to as “top hat” liners. The flange kept them from moving up and down, and the problem seemed solved. Unfortunately, it wasn’t permanent.

Failures happened when the engine got hot enough that thermal expansion made the liner loose in the block casting. For most people, that meant liner failure followed what we euphemistically called a thermal incident. In other words, the engines failed after the cars were overheated. The initial overheating could be caused by anything – water pump leakage, fan belt failure, or a blown hose.

The out-of-place liner was a visible evidence of failure, but some engines had more serious problems hidden inside. It turned out that the overheating was also causing cracks in the aluminum block castings. Sometimes the cracks allowed oil and coolant to mix, leading to another engine failure. Other times, cracks allowed combustion gases to get into the coolant, which led to another thermal incident.

When the blocks developed cracks we were stuck. Repair of the cracks required removal of every liner from the block, and costs were prohibitive. Replacement blocks were the only answer, or so it seemed.

The problem got so bad that Lad Rover began supplying warranty exchange blocks to dealers for about $1,000. By doing that, they in effect subsidized the repair of thousands of engines over a period of several years. The problem was, the new engines weren’t any better. They were all susceptible to failures.

However, they were all we had to work with, so we made the best of the situation. The main thing we learned was: Never drive a Rover with an overheated engine! By following that advice and preventing overheats we kept the problem at a manageable level.

Until this year.

That was when we saw our first Rover that had combustion gases leaking into the coolant with no prior history of overheating. And when the motor was torn down for inspection, all the liners were in place and there was no sign of thermal damage. Yet the block failed a pressure test where we applied compressed air to the cylinder to simulate what happens when pressures build up as the motor runs. The air leaked right into the coolant passages. How could that be?

We removed the leaky liner, and made an alarming discovery. The aluminum casting that should have supported the liner had rotted away. The inside of the block looked like a piece of decomposing cheese. It was an ugly situation, one of the only failures for which we could see no repair option. It was like looking at rusted floor boards . . . at a certain point, there is no solid metal left to fix.

Since that time, we have seen a few more engines failed in the same way. The symptoms can be subtle at first. There may be slow loss of coolant, and the truck may develop a misfire as spark plugs become fouled by white deposits from coolant that leaks in and burns.

We’ve been wondering what would cause this new, severe, failure and I think we’ve got some answers.

The first problem is the tooling. As the tooling aged, production tolerances became sloppier and sloppier. We’ve seen new engine castings with actual holes where the aluminum failed to fill in. Overall production quality on the last pushrod V8 engines was a far cry from what we saw at the beginning.

That means the last crop of engine blocks – those made from the late 1990s through the end of production in 2005 – are weaker than the blocks that came before. That makes them more vulnerable to corrosion because there’s less consistency in the metal. Something must have changed, since these blocks have been in production a long time and we’ve never before seen these gross corrosion failures.

That’s where the second issue comes in - the coolant. In 1999, Rover began using Dex-Cool in place of the green coolant they’d used for the previous thirty-some years. There have been some recent lawsuits alleging corrosion when Dex-Cool is used in late model engines, and the revelations of those cases may shed some light on the Land Rover situation.

It appears that Dex-Cool can react with the materials in the engine if there is an excess of air in the cooling system, as happens when the level is low. Dex-Cool can also react with other coolants, something that happens if old style green coolant is added to the system.

I believe those are the issues that underlie the current block failures, but I can’t rule out the possibility that something more is going on. What does it mean for you? I’ll close with some specific tips for any of you who own or service 1999-2004 Land Rover Discovery or P38 Range Rovers.

First, I urge you to follow Rover’s recommendation and change your coolant every 30,000 miles. It’s very important that you use the correct Dex-Cool product. If your system has been contaminated by mixing several types of coolant, flush it thoroughly before filling.

Before you drive, always make sure the expansion tank is full to the proper level. Don’t drive the vehicle if the level is low, and don’t drive it at all if it’s overheated.

Finally, if you work on these cars pay close attention to the cooling system pressure. One early giveaway of block failure is high pressure in the system before the engine is really warm. I’ve seen Rovers that pressurize the radiator hoses rock hard while the engine is still cold. That’s a sure sign of a serious internal problem.

Another thing to look for is white deposits on spark plugs. If you see six or seven clean-looking plugs and one or two fouled with white a deposit, that’s a sign of coolant intrusion into the cylinders.

I wish I could close with a quick and easy answer, but I’m afraid there’s no such thing. It’s a serious problem that can be managed but if you experience a failure, the only cure is a new block. And that’s becoming a problem. Three years ago Land Rover sold the tooling to make the V8 engine to Mitchell Cotts, one of their subcontractors.

Cotts made some changes in the production process, including a change in the way the blocks are cast to address the liner problem. They speculated that inconsistent metal thickness in the area of the cylinder bores contributed to the failures, and they adopted a newer technique to remedy that deficiency. Time will tell if it works.

Unfortunately, Cotts went broke in the wake of least year’s economic collapse. As of September 2009, they are shut down and no other supplier has stepped in. At this moment I don’t know when Land Rover V8 engine production will resume, or who will do it. Federal law requires Land Rover to have full parts support for the Discovery line – including engines – through 2014. It will be interesting to see what they do.

In the meantime, a few Rover specialists – Robison Service being one of them - rebuild engines from a dwindling supply of corrosion-free old blocks.

So take care of that engine – it may be the last one you get for a while.

Until next time,
John Elder Robison
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